Fermentation: culinary alchemy. When we harvest our crops, we turn one living organisms into inert ingredients, essentially neutering them by industrial processes. Fermentation breathes new life, rejuvenating and awakening them from the dead. Just the sound of that faint, muted bubble as the microbial army begins its work is enough to give anyone butterflies.

Fermentation and pickling have its roots in neolithic times where hawthorn and chrysanthemum were fermented into rice wine in central China. Since then, no single corner of the globe is without its own means of preservation, be it the tepache of Mexico or the unmistakable funk of Korean kimchi.

For me, fermentation is both addictive and my solace, forcing me to slow my pace. It can’t be rushed; you are at the mercy of the microbial activity which will dictate when you can reap the rewards of your efforts.

A word of warning. All equipment must be sterilised before use, be it the weights to keep your ferments or pickles submerged or the container they are in. Metal is no friend of microflora, so use glass where possible. And fundamentally, do not alter the salt ratios of the recipes. They are a bespoke prescription to allow healthy bacteria to flourish and pathogens to remain at bay. If you are wary of your salt intake, reduce your portion size rather than dabble with the quantities….

And finally enjoy this unique metamorphosis you put into play; you can be a kitchen witch like the best of us…

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