The ubiquitous carrot cake takes a seasonal shift. Do not get me wrong, I love carrots, knobbly and gnarled as they overwinter, springing into their narrow, spindly counterparts as the weather warms and their verdant shoots take the guise of crazy pastoral Mohicans.

But let us not overlook the less attractive specimens, the ugly sisters to the Cinderella carrots. What they lack in looks they certainly make up for in flavour.

Celeriac imparts a gentle nod to fresh celery but with an undertone of sweetness, the perfect foil to rich spices and a hint of winter citrus.

One to experiment with, you can also substitute the same quantity of swede or parsnip.